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Your Guide to the Camino de Santiago

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Reflection is a part of every pilgrims day to day. And the Camino definitely gives you plenty of time to reflect on your planning and preparation. So here are a few insights to help you plan your way. With plenty more in-depth insights to come.

Do you need to book accommodation on the Camino?

To book or not to book? That is the question. I can tell you from experience that I am so thankful I booked accommodation in St Jean Pied du Port. After spending several months on waitlists at multiple albergues, I secured a bed at Gîte Ultreïa just a month before my arrival (yes, the Camino always provide). Many pilgrims starting at the same time were not so lucky, with the public albergue reaching full capacity very quickly after opening.

For the majority of my pilgrimage, I stayed in municipal albergues. As an early riser and fast walker (at the time), I often arrived in time to score a bed. However, others walking on a different timeline often found it difficult to find a bed. There was only one instance I missed out on a bed (after walking 40 km to Ages), but luckily I was able to get one in the next town.

Early line for an albergue in Burgos
10am at the Municipal Albergue, Burgos (Albergue de peregrinos Casa del Cubo de Burgos)

After my this mishap, I booked my accommodation a night in advance when I felt like walking longer which would have me arrive later in the afternoon. If my plans changed, I would contact the albergue straight away to cancel the bed to ensure another pilgrim would be able to sleep comfortably that night. The Frances Way is highly commercialised and reservations have become common practice, so if you’re after a more traditional experience maybe consider a less popular route.

What is food like on the Camino?

Food on the Camino is delicious – but be ready for lots of meat, carbs and fresh fruit. I found finding a balanced diet a little tricky at times, and have heard that it can be quite limiting for those with particular eating habits (and if that’s you, you may find that you need to eat in more).

I highly recommend indulging in one or two Pilgrim Meals at the start of your Camino, and not for the food. The pilgrim menu is very basic and is some of the most underwhelming meals I’ve ever had. But the company and camaraderie with fellow pilgrims is well worth it. A chance to meet the people behind the friendly faces that greet you time and time again on your way to Santiago. However, after a few dinners you will be ready to mix it up – and do so! Cook with your fellow pilgrims, try local bars and restaurants and embrace all the food of the Camino.

My favourite was my breakfast routine. I would get up, enjoy a nectarine, and be off on my way. After an hour or two of walking I would stumble across a cafe or bar that was just opening for the day to enjoy a fresh Spanish omelette. Here I would meet others grabbing their morning coffee and we would cross paths all day, generally meeting at the same spots for lunch and dinner.

So in a nutshell. Don’t go for the food, go for the company.

What to pack for the Camino?

So… crossing my fingers and hoping for the best didn’t work for me. I began the Camino carrying all my travel gear in my Osprey Farpoint 40L backpack, weighing a total of 13 kg (with water). And quite frankly, this was not my most intelligent life choice.

Due to carrying the extra burden, and double I should have been, I was ready to throw in the towel on Day 5 of my journey. The extra weight caused havoc on my joints and muscles and I felt as if I could not go on.

Determined to continue (and after a very long and teary eyed phone call with my mum), I bought a new day pack, filled it with no more than 10% of my body weight (including water), and sent the rest of my items in my backpack via the luggage service until I was able to ship my non-essential gear to Madrid from Logronno.

Once I finally recovered from the strain of carrying dead weight, I could finally enjoy my Camino.

To make it easy for you I’ve prepared a simple camino packing list as a starting point for your journey.

How much does the Camino cost?

Now we reach the pointy end…

Essentially walking the Camino is free. There is no charge to walk any of the routes, however, you will of course be expected to pay for your meals, accommodation and any other incidentals along the way. My planned daily budget in 2014 was €10 a day. This dream was quickly shattered! Realistically, if you really watch your pennies you can get just scrape by with around €25 to €30 a day – and that is with no splurging or extra comforts. So when setting your budget, really assess what your wants and needs are, as well as your purpose for walking the Camino.

In general, if you budget around €50 a day you should have more than enough to get by (all going well of course). This budget doesn’t include your gear, flights, other transport and of course travel insurance. Don’t forget, it always good to stash a little extra away in case of an emergency too – and the Camino is no stranger to an emergency.